Chris thin parting tool

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You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Chris Stott Thin Parting. Thread starter Robin Thompson Start date Nov 5, Robin Thompson.

What is the deal on a Chris Stott thin parting tool? I do not know how to use or sharpen it. With the one possibly exception of a honey dipper's "vents". So when it was time for me to get a new one, I went with a standard-I couldn't justify the cost of a fluted tool when the surface was going to be worked more anyways. If I had the time, I would have made one. It's not so much by brand, as much as "type" and cost. After the type is decided, it's down to cost and I'd go by cost.

If the Crown tool is on sale and not the Sorby, go for the crown. That's just a personal preference decision. Or make your own. Not much help, I know. Forgot one thing. The "point" or tip isn't at the bottom of mine. The end of the tool doesn't look like a triangle like some do from the factory. Doesn't it make a difference? It seems to. I think it adds some support to the edge having some steel under it. How do others have their tool's tip "configured? Wyatt Holm. I have a Sorby, it works but is not the best.

I just bought it based on price. I think it would be better to have one that had a bigger handle. I bought it for box making and it works. If I was doing really large boxes like cookie jars I would use the straight coring tool from the McNaughton center saver.

Wyatt Holm said:. Last edited: Dec 2, Jake Debski. Snagged one of our stainless kitchen knives, flattened the cutting edge and ground a supported point on it. I still use it when a thin kerf is needed. Thankfully my wife still hasn't missed the knife. Jake one of my favorite parting tools for small work is a paring knife. I choose the ones that are tapered so the bottom is thinner. Grind off the sharp edge and grind a taper on the upper part and your ready to go.

Barbara Gill. My favorite thin parting tool was made from one of my broken WoodMizer blades. It is a little longer than normal and can get into some tight places if needed. Ken Grunke. I have an odd assortment of kitchen cutlery in a box where I might find a useful parting tool some day. One side is ground convex and the other is flat like so: It has a spear point in the center, at the thickest part. I have also used a regular thin hacksaw blade held not in a frame but in one of those setscrew handles, with the teeth pointing toward the handle to cut on the pull stroke.

If you can get behind the lathe, or have reverse, this is safe since if the blade grabs, it moves away from you. I use the Stott parting tool for small diameter work 3" or less and a regular diamond profile type Sorby for larger work. Gil Jones. I use an old yard sale Rapala 6" fillet knife, reground as a parting tool. It is. I suppose a longer blade would be better for deep cuts, but this is what I have for now.

Copy of Rapala Parting Tool. JPG Last edited: Dec 11, Jon Murphy. I'd been thinking of grinding my Sorby's flutes off and setting it up like a Stott as I hated shifting my tool rest and putting a strip of leather on it to protect it from the flutes. I'd tried flute up and, like you, found it to be effective but was fixated on the flute down that seemed to be Sorby's intent.

Your post has saved my Sorby, I'll just use it flute up. Actually I think Sorby goofed in the finishing process - I think it was probably designed for flute up but their production line design printed their name on the blade upside down, and vendors and users just assumed it was supposed to be flute down because of the orientation of the name logo.

It is far more logical to have the fluted long edge up so that as one hones the short edge back one is getting fresh flutes instead of ones worn a bit round by the tool rest. Bill Boehme Administrator Staff member. Beta Tester. Jon Murphy said:. Proof of the value of old AAW Forum entries, your post is from six years ago.

Harry Robinette. I had a Sorby flute that I gave to one of the guys I turn with. I have a small Crown that I liked after I put what alot of people call a shark nose on it long top short angel on bottom. Swmbo got me a spelling Filmadge parting tool thin and longer then most that I really like. Have any of you tried a "cut off blade" from the metal work trade? Enco and all the others sell them.

They are usually short, some have a carbide top cutting edge welded to a HSS bottom part. I have only seen them 6" long at the most. Edward Weber. It amazes me that so many people use "whatever" they can get their hands on. Why is a parting tool relegated to being the "home made" tool? Turners will spend hundreds of dollars on a single tool or accessory that is designed for only one task, once in a while.

When it comes to something as versatile, and used as often, as a parting tool, for some reason it's made on the cheap. Make it look like the Sorby without the fangs. Thanks so much,Michael. What a difference that made. Robin I made my own thin parting tool but one of the things I do is to make the lower bevel the same size as my bowl or spindle gouge bevel.

In other words the height from the bottom of the tool to the cutting edge will be the same. That way I don't have to adjust my tool rest height because the cutting edges are similar. If I remember correctly I might have covered that in my parting tool video.

Cory Norgart. Wow John, great video!! Thanks for sharing, I learned alot this evening. Thanks John, I had watched your parting tool video previously, but for some reason missed the way the thin parting tool was sharpened. Joined Oct 16, Messages 29 Likes 0. I also thank you John. I've always heard "he who knows the most, shares the most" I find this is so true in the woodturning world.

The most sharing folks ever. Thanks again, Grandy in GA.